gotji GLOSS-arY
Welcome to the gotji GLOSS-arY. The information here is sourced from materials reasonably believed to be accurate and reliable, but the content available on or through this site is not guaranteed to be complete, exhaustive, or error-free. It's just a place to start learning a little bit about makeup and physiology. This is for informational purposes only...but hopefully it is interesting and fun, too.
Alopecia is hair loss which can occur on the head, eyebrows, eyelashes, or body. Alopecia is a result of hair follicles becoming damaged or inactive, leading to reduced hair growth or hair loss. Common causes are hormonal imbalances, autoimmune disorders, nutritional deficiencies, or stress. Alopecia can also be a side effect of some chemotherapies (like cyclophosphamide or doxorubicin) or radiation (hair loss in the area getting radiated). Not all cancer treatments cause hair loss, so not all cancer patients will experience hair loss.
Biotin is also known as vitamin H because it supports the production of keratin, a protein that makes up hair, skin, and nails. Biotin is one of the B complex vitamins important for converting nutrients into energy. It occurs naturally in the body, and is found in meats, eggs, nuts, and seeds.
Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body, accounting for about 30% of the body’s total protein content. It is the primary building block of skin, muscles, bone, tendons, and ligaments. Collagen helps give skin its thickness, strength, elasticity, and smoothness. Collagen production decreases with aging, while its breakdown accelerates. The body doesn’t absorb collagen, but collagen can be made (by eating foods with Vitamin C, proline, glycine, proline, hydroxyproline, and zinc) and it can be preserved (by wearing sunscreen to prevent damage to collagen proteins).
Dermatitis means inflammation of the skin which can manifest as irritation, redness, itching, blistering, swelling, or basically sensitive skin. It can be caused by contact with irritants, exposure to allergens, underlying conditions (such as eczema), or environmental factors (radiation therapy, dry air, or stress). People with dermatitis often benefit from practicing gentle skincare (avoid sulfates), minimizing exposure to triggers, increasing hydration, and keeping the skin protected.
Endocrine glands are tissues that make and release hormones. Hormones are chemical messengers that travel in the blood and bind to receptors to control the functions of other cells or organs. The pancreas is an endocrine gland that produces the hormone insulin, which controls blood sugar and metabolism. The ovaries are endocrine glands which secrete the hormones estrogen and progesterone to control female fertility, and the testes are endocrine glands which secrete the hormone testosterone to control male fertility. These sex hormones can contribute to the growth of breast and prostate cancers, so sometimes their treatment may include endocrine blockade to prevent the formation, or inhibit the activity, of these hormones. Parabens and phthalates are used in many personal care products and cosmetics. They are endocrine disruptors because studies in cells have shown that they can bind to hormone receptors and mimic the effects of hormones, or disrupt normal pathways. So theoretically, endocrine disruptors could potentially promote tumor growth, or interfere with the efficacy of therapies intended to block these receptors. The Multiethnic Cohort study found that breast cancer patients often had higher levels of some urinary phthalate metabolites than women without breast cancer (ref. 1). However, an analysis of the Womens Health Initiative did not show any association between urinary phthalate biomarker concentrations and postmenopausal breast cancer risk (ref. 2). The FDA has not yet found sufficient evidence that the parabens and phthalates in cosmetics pose a safety risk to humans (refs. 3,4). However, the state of California and the European Union have banned or restricted the use of certain parabens and phthalates in cosmetics.
Formaldehyde is a chemical that is naturally found in some foods (like fish, pears, oranges, and mushrooms) and is also used in many industries as a preservative to prevent microbial growth and the extend shelf life of a product. Reducing the risk of infection and delaying product expiration sound like good things, but formaldehyde can also cause skin irritation, allergies, respiratory problems, and cancer. Given these risks and the presence of other options, it’s not a good ingredient for makeup. Many beauty products these days don’t use formaldehyde anymore but might contain formaldehyde releasers (like DMDM hydantoin and quaternium-15).
Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a humectant— it attracts and retains moisture to help keep the skin hydrated and repair the barrier. Glycerin and hyaluronic acid are both humectants commonly used in skincare products. Humectants can be used first to hydrate the skin, and then the moisture can be sealed in with an emollient on top of the skin to provide a barrier preventing water from being lost.
Hyperpigmentation occurs when skin cells (melanocytes) make too much of a pigment called melanin. Hyperpigmentation can manifest as freckles, age spots, or larger areas of darkened skin. Hyperpigmentation can be caused by injury, inflammation, sun damage, abnormal skin growths, hormone changes, pregnancy, or other medical conditions. Certain medicines, including some anticancer drugs, can also cause hyperpigmentation.
Inflammation is an immune response to injury or infection. It manifests as redness, swelling, pain, heat, or loss of function that results from extra blood flow or immune cells coming in to attempt to protect and repair tissues affected by injury or disease. Inflammation is a part of the healing process.
Jojoba oil is known for its humectant (draws water to the skin) and emollient (skin softening, smoothing, and sealing) properties. Jojoba oil contains a variety of fatty acids that hydrate and support the skin. By improving skin hydration, it can reduce inflammation and protect the skin from irritants.
healthy skin = healthy barrier = healthy first line of defense against infection
A keloid is a thick scar caused by excessive tissue growth at a surgical site or area of skin injury. Noninvasive strategies for dealing with keloids include sun protection (like using a high SPF, broad-spectrum sunscreen) and makeup. If trying to cover keloids or other scars with makeup, try these tips: moisturize and prime the skin --> pick the right color corrector (green to cover red; peach or orange to correct dark) --> apply a full-coverage foundation --> apply a full-coverage concealer --> set with powder.
The lymphatic system is one of the 11 human organ systems, and the lymph nodes clear excess fluids and filter substances from the lymph vessels that drain to them. There are hundreds of lymph nodes which serve distinct parts of the body. Lymph nodes are an important part of the immune system’s response to fighting cancer, but they are also a site where cancers can spread. For example, breast cancer can go to the lymph nodes in the armpit and throat cancer cells can travel to the lymph nodes in the neck. Lymphoma is when the lymph cells (lymphocytes) themselves mutate and become cancerous. Lymphedema occurs when the lymph vessels become impaired in their ability to remove excess fluid from the tissues. Surgery, radiation, or chemotherapy for some cancers can cause lymphedema. Jade rollers and gua sha stones have gained attention in the Unites States lately, and are thought to help with circulation, skin tone, and lymphatic drainage of the face.
A mole is a benign skin growth formed by a cluster of melanocytes (cells that make a pigment called melanin, which gives color to skin/eyes and protects against damage from UV light). Most moles are not cancerous, but they should be monitored for any change in size, shape, or color, or if they start oozing or bleeding because those could be signs of melanoma. New moles or moles with irregular borders should be examined by a medical professional, like a dermatologist.
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Products that are non-comedogenic are designed to avoid clogging pores, which should help prevent breakouts in people with acne-prone or oily skin. Non-comedogenic products aim to reduce inflammation and minimize injury to the skin, which would be helpful for people with sensitive skin.
Onychodystrophy is an umbrella term for changes in nail shape, color, texture, or growth that can be a side effect of some chemotherapies (like paclitaxel, docetaxel, or 5-fluorouracil). Nails can become hyperpigmented, develop ridges/lines/fissures, lift at the nail bed, or split/chip. Nails are mostly made of the protein keratin. Fingernails grow at a rate of about 3 mm per month (or 4-6 months) for complete regrowth of fingernails. Toenails grow slower at a rate of about 1 mm per month (or 12-18 months) for complete regrowth of fingernails. This is why onychodystrophy doesn’t start immediately after starting chemo (because the healthy nails are the ones you see for a while) and it takes months after chemo is over for nails to recover (because of the time needed for regrowth). Because some chemo nail changes are related to injured blood vessels, it’s important to avoid toxic chemicals on the nails to limit their access to the bloodstream.
Parabens are preservatives used in personal care products and even in food to help prevent the growth of microorganisms like bacteria and mold. However, there are concerns that parabens are endocrine disruptors that may potentially disrupt our body’s natural hormone pathways, so scientists are actively studying their effects on people and their effects on human health. The FDA has not yet found sufficient evidence that the parabens in cosmetics pose a safety risk a safety risk (ref. 3), but the state of California and the European Union have banned or restricted the use of certain parabens in cosmetics.
Qigong is an ancient Chinese mind-body practice that incorporates movement, muscle relaxation, meditation, and breathing exercises to improve physical, emotional, and mental health. The Society of Integrative Oncology-American Society of Clinical Oncology (SIO-ASCO) guidelines recommend it for fatigue, anxiety and depression related to treatment (ref. 5). A study from Brown University found that low-impact exercise with qigong improved cancer-related fatigue and stress (ref. 6).
Radicals, or free radicals, are highly reactive atoms or molecules with an unpaired electron; the unpaired electron makes free radicals very unstable and able to react with other molecules, causing DNA damage and creating oxidative stress, which ultimately leads to cell and tissue injury. When the free radicals created by smoking damage the good cells, they can cause cancer. When the free radicals created by chemotherapy or radiation therapy damage the bad cells, they can cure cancer. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals, protecting cells from their damaging effects. While natural antioxidants in food may promote health and healing, most doctors discourage high-dose antioxidant supplements during cancer treatment because of concerns that antioxidants might interfere with the efficacy of the cancer treatment (refs. 7,8,9).
Sulfates are cleansers. Sodium laurel sulfate (SLS) a type of surfactant used in skincare and makeup products to create a creamy, foamy effect…but it can actually be drying an irritating to the skin. It’s best to try to avoid products with sulfates in them when suffering from dry, sensitive, or irritated skin.
The two most common physical (inorganic) sunscreens are titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide. TiO2 is more effective in the UVB range than zinc oxide. However, both TiO2 and zinc oxide protect against both UVA and UVB rays, so both are called broad-spectrum sunscreens.
Ultraviolet A (UVA) rays are the most common cause of skin aging because they penetrate deep into the skin and can cause wrinkles. UVA rays damage collagen and elastin fibers in the dermis, and can inhibit their production. UVA rays are always available regardless of the season, which is why sun protection is always recommended to try to slow down aging. UVB rays lead to darker skin, sunburn, freckles, and age spots and are more potent in summer. Both UVA and UVB rays are responsible for skin damage, and both can cause skin cancer.
Vitamins are organic compounds that are essential for normal bodily functions ranging from growth to metabolism to nervous system activity to immune function to blood cell formation to bone health to vision—and more. Vitamins must be obtained through diet because they are either not made by the body, or the body cannot produce enough of them to keep up with the demand for them. There are 13 recognized vitamins. There are fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E, and K) which can be stored in the liver and fatty tissues. The water-soluble vitamins (C and the eight B vitamins) are not stored and are excreted out through the urine. The most important vitamins for hair, skin, and nail health are Vitamins A, B-complex, C, D, and E.
Wellness is more than just physical, emotional, and mental health. Social well-being and interpersonal relationships are also helpful to one’s cancer journey. Studies have shown that patients with better social support have less toxicity with treatment (ref. 10), better quality of life (ref. 11), and are more likely to complete their treatment (ref. 12). Wellness is something that cancer patients need and benefit from. But it’s important for caregivers to remember to practice self-care too, because caregivers are also affected by the illness of people close to them—and taking care of yourself will help you contribute to the wellness of someone you care about.
Xerosis is dry skin. Chemotherapy can disrupt the skin's natural ability to retain moisture, leading to dryness, itching, cracking, rashes, and skin peeling. Some ways to mitigate xerosis include using mild fragrance-free cleansers, avoiding hot water, using emollient rich moisturizers several times a day (especially after getting skin wet when washing hands or showering), and drinking plenty of water.
Yeast is a normal part of the skin’s microbiome, preferring warm and moist areas. Yeast-derived extracts are sometimes used in moisturizers to condition the skin and hair. Because yeast from your skin can also contaminate your makeup, it’s important to regularly clean makeup brushes or applicators, store cosmetics in a cool dry place, not share makeup, and pay attention to the expiration labels on makeup products (refs. 13, 14).
Zinc oxide is the active ingredient in physical sunscreens (mineral sunscreens) with superior broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection and is considered preferable for those with sensitive skin. Unlike chemical sunscreens, which absorb UV rays, physical sunscreens sit on the surface of the skin to provide immediate protection by deflecting them away. The American Academy of Dermatologists recommend physical sunscreens, also called mineral sunscreens, for people with sensitive skin (ref. 15).
Key characteristics of physical sunscreens:
Broad-Spectrum Protection: Offer protection against both UVA and UVB rays.
Potentially Thicker Consistency: Some physical sunscreens can feel thicker and may leave
a slight white cast on the skin.
Sweat-Resistant and Water-Resistant: Generally more durable and resistant to sweat/water.
Good for Sensitive Skin: Mineral ingredients are generally well-tolerated and less likely
to irritate sensitive skin.
Longer Lasting: Tend to last longer in direct sunlight, especially when they are still visible.
REFERENCES
1) https://breast-cancer-research.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s13058-021-01419-6
2) https://academic.oup.com/jnci/article/111/10/1059/5284913?login=false
4) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/phthalates-cosmetics
5) https://www.mskcc.org/cancer-care/integrative-medicine/therapies/qigong#msk_consumer
6) https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/15347354231162584
11) https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3906043/
12) https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3124351/
15) https://www.aad.org/media/stats-sunscreen